Wednesday, June 1, 2011

The First Taste of Summer


I know, I know 3 months is kind of a long time to not update the blog. There has been lots of delicious cooking going on, just not enough time to photograph and write about it all! So I think it's best to ease back into things with a simple -- albeit delicious -- recipe.

After working in the garden for a good part of Memorial Day, I had a hankering for lettuce. Seeing as mine wouldn't be ready for awhile (and may never be if those darn rabbits don't stay away) I picked up some arugula and found a recipe for a salad that mixes oranges and radishes with this spicy green. It was ridiculously refreshing and made me feel a little less guilty about the side of baby back pork ribs that went with it. So ribs or no, be sure to give this salad a try!

Orange and Radish Salad with Arugula

5 teaspoons lime juice from 1 to 2 limes
1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/8 teaspoon table salt
Ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 medium oranges - remove peel and pith then cut into segments
5 radishes - cut into discs or bite-sized wedges
4 ounces baby arugula (about 4 cups)

Whisk together lime juice, mustard, coriander, salt and pepper to taste in bowl. Whisking constantly, gradually add oil until emulsion forms. Add oranges and radishes to dressing. Toss to coat. Plate arugula, top with oranges and radishes, drizzle dressing on top.

Serve with side of meat if you've been gardening all day and are really hungry.


Tuesday, March 1, 2011

A is for Apple


I came to the realization, a few weeks ago, that my old food processor was more duct tape than appliance. It served me well for the past decade; a gift from my sister after moving into my first apartment in college. And while I sometimes enjoy the rustic and time honored tradition of using a fork to cut butter into flour, I knew the food processor needed replacing. Good thing I just had a birthday! Enter my new KitchenAid -- 12 cups of food processing glory. I wanted to take this baby for a test spin and an Apple Galette from Cooks Illustrated (Sept 2007) caught my eye.

One additional piece of kitchen equipment that will make your life easier when dealing with apple dishes is an apple mill such as the one shown here. They're relatively inexpensive ($15-20) and in the time it would take me to manually peel an apple with a paring knife, I can have 5 apples peeled, spiral sliced, and cored with this device. The other great thing is that the apples are cut to uniform thickness, which makes for a more attractive final dish. If you have a lot of flat counters get a model with a suction cup base. If you have counters with overhangs, go for the C-clamp style (which I prefer as the suction cups tend of fall off after awhile -- but don't worry you can still hold it down securely with one hand).



Apple Galette
Although any apple will work in this recipe, a firm tart apple is best like a Granny Smith or Empire. If you don't have an apple mill, halve the peeled apples and then use a melon baller or paring knife to remove the core from each half. Make sure to cut the apples uniformly and no thicker than 1/8 inch, otherwise they will be hard to shingle. The dough can be made 1-2 days in advance although if it has chilled longer than 1 hour, let it stand at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes to soften. If the dough becomes soft and sticky while being rolled, transfer it to a baking sheet and refrigerate it for 10 to 15 minutes. Check the bottom of the galette halfway through baking-it should be a light golden brown. If it is darker, reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees. Serve with vanilla ice cream, lightly sweetened whipped cream, or creme fraiche (as seen below). This dish is sturdy enough to eat with your hands so go for it! Store leftovers (if you're lucky enough to have any) in plastic wrap for 2-3 days. 

Dough:
1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon sugar
12 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 5/8-inch cubes (1 1/2 sticks)
8-10 tablespoons ice water

Apple Filling:
1 1/2 pounds apples (3-4 medium or 4-5 small), see note above
2 tablespoons unsalted butter , cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons apricot preserves
1 tablespoon water


Combine flour, cornstarch, salt, and sugar in food processor with three 1-second pulses. Scatter butter pieces over flour, pulse to cut butter into flour until butter pieces are size of large pebbles, about 1/2 inch, about six 1-second pulses.

Sprinkle 1 tablespoon water over mixture and pulse once quickly to combine; repeat, adding water 1 tablespoon at a time and pulsing, until dough begins to form small curds that hold together when pinched with fingers (dough should look crumbly and should not form cohesive ball).

The following is a kneading technique called "fraisage" that helps to give the crust a flaky texture: Empty dough onto work surface and gather into rough rectangular mound about 12 inches long and 5 inches wide. Starting at farthest end, use heel of hand to smear small amount of dough against counter, pushing firmly down and away from you, to create a separate pile of dough (flattened pieces of dough should look shaggy). Continue process until all dough has been worked. Gather dough into rough 12 by 5-inch mound and repeat smearing process. Dough will not have to be smeared as much as first time and should form cohesive ball once entire portion is worked. Form dough into 4-inch square, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate until cold and firm but still malleable, 30 minutes to 1 hour.

About 15 minutes before baking, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Peel, core, and halve apples. Cut apple halves lengthwise into 1/8-inch-thick slices.

Place dough on floured 16 by 12-inch piece of parchment paper and dust with more flour. Roll dough until it just overhangs all four sides of parchment and is about 1/8 inch thick, dusting top and bottom of dough and rolling pin with flour as needed to keep dough from sticking. Trim dough so edges are even with parchment paper.

Roll up 1 inch of each edge and pinch firmly to create 1/2-inch-thick border. Transfer dough and parchment to rimmed baking sheet.

Starting in one corner, shingle sliced apples to form even row across bottom of dough, overlapping each slice by about one-half. Continue to layer apples in rows, overlapping each row by half. Dot apples with butter and sprinkle evenly with sugar. Bake until bottom of tart is deep golden brown and apples have caramelized, 45 to 60 minutes.

While galette is cooking, combine apricot preserves and water in medium microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on medium power until mixture begins to bubble, about 1 minute. Pass through fine-mesh strainer to remove any large apricot pieces. Brush baked galette with glaze and cool on wire rack for 15 minutes. Transfer to cutting board. Cut in half lengthwise and then crosswise into individual portions; devour.

Sunday, January 30, 2011

Cakes of the Pan


Listening to A Prairie Home Companion this week, Garrison interviewed an elderly meteorologist who lives in northern Minnesota. Needless to say, most of the conversation revolved around the stoicism that subzero temperatures breed. It made me wonder if a stack of pancakes and bacon would have made the man a little more cheerful. I mean, is there a problem in the world that thick-cut smoked bacon can't solve? Seeing as eating only bacon for breakfast is generally frowned upon, I wanted to share with you the recipe I use for tangy and fluffy buttermilk pancakes. Don't be intimidated; if you can make pancakes from Bisquick, then you can master this recipe. The key is combining the ingredients in stages and then, at the end, mixing the wet and dry ingredients until just combined--I repeat DON'T OVERMIX! You want your batter to harbor pea-sized pockets of flour and leavening that, upon cooking, burst open and give your pancake lift.

Fluffy Buttermilk Pancakes
My favorite tool for cooking these pancakes is a cast iron skillet. It holds heat very well and, when treated properly, will be the best piece of non-stick cookware in your kitchen.  During cooking, rub 1/2 tsp. of oil inside the skillet every 2-3 pancakes. After a few, the residual oil in the towel will be sufficient to coat the surface. To clean cast iron, simply wipe out any cooked flecks of batter or oil with a paper towel -- never use soap! 

Makes 4-5 pancakes 

Ingredients:
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup milk (plus an extra tablespoon or so if batter is too thick)
1 large egg , separated
2 tablespoons unsalted butter , melted
vegetable oil (for brushing griddle)

Preheat oven to warm and heat griddle or cast iron skillet over strong medium-heat. 

Mix dry ingredients (flour through baking soda) in medium bowl. Pour buttermilk and milk into 2-cup Pyrex measuring cup. Whisk in egg white; mix yolk with melted butter, then stir into milk mixture. Dump wet ingredients into dry ingredients all at once; whisk until just mixed.

Brush griddle generously with oil. When water splashed on surface confidently sizzles, pour batter, about 1/4 to 1/2 cup at a time, onto griddle. When pancake bottoms are brown and top surface starts to bubble, 2 to 3 minutes, flip cakes and cook until remaining side has browned, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Hold pancakes in oven till ready to serve. Re-oil the skillet periodically.